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Fish Hook
A fish hook or fishhook is a device for finding and catching fish either by impaling them in the mouth or, more rarely, by snagging the body of the fish. Fish hooks have been employed for centuries simply by anglers to catch fresh and saltwater fish. In 2005, the fish filling device was chosen by Forbes as one of the top twenty equipment in the history of man.|1| Fish hooks are typically attached to some form of line or lure which connects the caught fish to the fisherman. There is an enormous variety of seafood hooks in the world of fishing. Sizes, designs, shapes, and resources are all variable depending on the supposed purpose of the fish lift. Fish hooks are manufactured for any range of purposes from standard fishing to extremely limited and specialized applications. Fish hooks are designed to hold various types of artificial, processed, deceased or live baits (bait fishing); to act as the building blocks for artificial representations of fish prey (fly fishing); or to be attached to or perhaps integrated into other devices that represent fish prey (lure fishing).
The fish fishing hook or similar device has become made by man for many thousands of years. The world's oldest fish hooks (they were made out of sea snails shells) were discovered in Sakitari Cave in Okinawa Island dated among 22, 380 and twenty two, 770 years old.|2||3| They are older than the fish hooks from the Jerimalai cave in East Timor dated between 23, 000 and 16, 000 years old,|4| and Fresh Ireland in Papua Fresh Guinea dated 20, 1000 to 18, 000 years old.|2|
An early written reference to a fish hook is found with regards to the Leviathan in the Book of Job 41: 1; Canst thou draw out leviathan which has a hook? Fish hooks have been crafted from all sorts of materials which includes wood, animal|5| and human bone, horn, shells, stone, bronze, straightener, and up to present day components. In many cases, hooks were made out of multiple materials to leverage the strength and positive characteristics of each material. Norwegians just as late as the 1954s still used juniper timber to craft Burbot hooks.|6| Quality metal hooks began to make their appearance in Europe in the 17th century and hook making became a task for professionals.
Normally referred to parts of a seafood hook are: its point, the sharp end that penetrates the fish's mouth area or flesh; the barb, the projection extending in reverse from the point, that protect the fish from unhooking; the eye, the loop in the end in the hook that is connected to the sport fishing line or lure; the bend and shank, that portion of the hook that connects the point and the vision; and the gap, the distance amongst the shank and the point. Oftentimes, hooks are described through the use of these various parts of the catch, for example: wide gape, very long shank, hollow point or out turned eye.
Fashionable hooks are manufactured from either high-carbon steel, steel alloyed with vanadium, or stainless steel, based on application. Most quality fish hooks are covered with some form of corrosion-resistant surface coating. Corrosion resistance is required not simply when hooks are used, specially in saltwater, but while they are kept. Additionally , coatings are placed on color and/or provide visual value to the hook. At the very least, hooks designed for freshwater use are coated with a obvious lacquer, but hooks can also be coated with gold, dime, Teflon, tin and different hues.
There are a large number of different types of seafood hooks. At the macro level, there are bait hooks, take flight hooks and lure hooks. Within these broad groups there are wide varieties of filling device types designed for different applications. Hook types differ in shape, materials, points and barbs, and eye type, and ultimately in their intended software. When individual hook types are designed the specific characteristics of each of these hook components happen to be optimized relative to the hook's intended purpose. For example , a fragile dry fly hook is made from thin wire with a pointed eye because weight may be the overriding factor. Whereas Carlisle or Aberdeen light line bait hooks make use of skinny wire to reduce injury to live bait but the eyes are certainly not tapered because weight is certainly not an issue. Many factors play a role in hook design, including corrosion resistance, weight, strength, connecting efficiency, and whether the fishing hook is being used for specific types of bait, on different types of lures or for different types of flies. For each hook type, there are ranges of appropriate sizes. For all types of hooks, sizes range from thirty two (the smallest) to 20/0 (the largest).
Hook forms and names are mainly because varied as fish themselves. In some cases hooks are identified by a traditional or cultural name, e. g. Aberdeen, Limerick or O'Shaughnessy. Consist of cases, hooks are merely recognized by their general purpose or have a part of their name, one or more with their physical characteristics. Some suppliers just give their hooks model numbers and describe their general purpose and characteristics. One example is:
Eagle Claw: 139 can be described as Snelled Baitholder, Offset, Straight down Eye, Two Slices, Channel Wire
Lazer Sharp: L2004EL is a Circle Sea, Huge Gap, Non-Offset, Ringed Eyes, Light Wire
Mustad Model: 92155 is a Beak Baitholder hook
Mustad Model: 91715D is an O'Shaughnessy Lure Hook, 90 degree angle
TMC Model 300: Streamer D/E, 6XL, Heavy wire, Agreed to, Bronze
TMC Model 200R: Nymph & Dry Take flight Straight eye, 3XL, Normal wire, Semidropped point, Falsified, Bronze
The shape of the catch shank can vary widely via merely straight to all sorts of curves, kinks, bends and offsets. These different shapes play a role in some cases to better hook penetration, fly imitations or lure holding ability. Many hooks intended to hold dead or artificial baits have sliced up shanks which create barbs for better baiting positioning ability. Jig hooks are made to have lead weight contoured onto the hook shank. Hook descriptions may also incorporate shank length as normal, extra long, 2XL, brief, etc . and wire size such as fine wire, extra heavy, 2X heavy, and so forth
Hooks are designed as either solo hooks-a single eye, shank and point; double hooks-a single eye merged with two shanks and details; or triple-a single eyesight merged with three shanks and three evenly spaced points. Double hooks will be formed from a single little bit of wire and may or may not have their shanks brazed together intended for strength. Treble hooks are formed by adding a single eyeless hook to a double lift and brazing all three shanks together. Double hooks are being used on some artificial tackle and are a traditional fly attach for Atlantic Salmon jigs, but are otherwise fairly rare. Treble hooks are used upon all sorts of artificial lures as well as for a wide variety of bait applications.
The hook point is probably the most important part of the hook. It is the stage that must penetrate fish real world and secure the seafood. The profile of the filling device point and its length influence how well the point goes trhough. The barb influences how far the point penetrates, how much pressure is required to penetrate and finally the holding power of the hook. Hook points happen to be mechanically (ground) or chemically sharpened. Some hooks happen to be barbless. Historically, many old fish hooks were barbless, but today a barbless filling device is used to make hook removing and fish release significantly less stressful on the fish. Lift points are also described relative to their offset from the hook shank. A kirbed fishing hook point is offset to the left, a straight point has no balance and a reversed stage is offset to the ideal.
Care needs to be taken when ever handling hooks as they may 'hook' the user. If a lift goes in deep enough under the barb, pulling the filling device out will tear the flesh. There are three techniques to remove a hook. The first is by cutting the real world to remove it. The second is to cut the eye of the hook away and then push the remainder with the hook through the flesh plus the third is to place pressure on the shank towards the drag which pulls the barb into the now oval gap then push the fishing hook out the way it came in.
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